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A stunning approach takes you across glaciers, along ridge-lines and up a gorgeous Alaskan summit.


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Map Key

1.8

Miles

2.9

KM

Ascent

7,943' 2,421 m

High

5,654' 1,723 m

Low

2,289' 698 m

Up

0' 0 m

Down

24%

Avg Slope (14°)

52%

Max Slope (28°)
Type: Backcountry or Sidecountry

Description

The first half of this approach should certainly be rated "Easy" but the second half is "Difficult."

Begin on the College Glacier Access route. From the flats of the glacier, head east and uphill toward a prominent notch in the ridge-line. Low angle slopes in this area provide good access even during unstable snow conditions.

Once you've gained the ridge, turn north toward the prominent massif of Peak 8100. You'll have low-angle terrain to the west that leads back the the College Glacier, or steeper, rockier terrain to the east that leads to "No Name" Glacier. Stay on the ridge and head toward the obvious south ridge of 8100. The ridge quickly steepens as you head up the flanks of the mountain. This is a full on mountaineering line at this point and appropriate gear and knowledge is paramount. This ridge and summit can also be heavily corniced: Watch out!

Shared By:

James Smith

Trail Ratings

  5.0 from 1 vote

#54

Overall
  5.0 from 1 vote
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Ascent Rankings

#1

in Alaska

#54

Overall
10 Views Last Month
876 Since Mar 24, 2016
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Photos

Skiers head up the flat portion of the ridge below Peak 8100. The route continues up the prominent ridge behind them.
Mar 24, 2016 near Black R…, AK
Headed up The Steg toward Peak 8100. The prominent coulior at the shadow line is SXSW.
Mar 24, 2016 near Black R…, AK
Looking back down the skin track above the flats on the ridge. College Glacier below on the right.
Mar 24, 2016 near Black R…, AK
Approximately 5500' elevation on the glacier, things flatten out. From here, use other routes to access the incredible lines that surround you.
Mar 23, 2016 near Black R…, AK
The summit of 8100 just touched by the sun. SXSW is the couloir directly below the summit. Note the rock and other glacial hazards below the line.
Mar 24, 2016 near Black R…, AK

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