Type: Backcountry or Sidecountry
Climbing passes and permits are required for all glacier travel and trips above 10,000 ft.
See road access restrictions on the Muir Camp Approach
(Summer -> Late Summer) page.
Need to Know
This line requires glacial travel and rope skills. Extra caution should be used in the chute, as rock fall is common. It is recomended that parties get an alpine start and ascend the route before the sun gets to it.
For the adventurous ski mountaineer, this is a classic big mountain ski descent. I will not discuss the route/descent above 11,600 ft. After exiting the Nisqually Glacier at ~11,600 ft. (assuming you are summiting), descend great steep skiing (~45ish deg.) to 11,300 ft. This is where you need to make sure you are on the skier's left-trending chute. The chute to the right is the Fuhrer Thumb, which is steeper and can be cliffed out. Continue down the chute, making sure to stay left (skiers) at ~10,100 ft. as there is extensive rockfall to the NW. Descend further to ~9,400 ft.where you'll need to pick your way across the Wilson Glacier to the ridge extending from bottom of The Turtle.
Shared By: Ben Stone